Not since Katharine Hepburn swung a club in Pat & Mike has anyone cared much about raising the profile of golf in the cool stakes. Perhaps it seemed like a lost cause, all those ill-fitting beige chinos, fluted calf-grazing skirts, and uptight cardigans? Understandably, it’s one sport that’s been dodged by most designers who have played into the mood for modern athleticism over the past few seasons, but regardless, Felipe Oliveira Baptista took up the challenge for fall. After poring over archival imagery of Golf de Chantaco, the Lacoste family club in the Basque region of France, he spun those archaic uniforms into something that could realistically be seen on his acolytes in their twenties and thirties (which is perhaps why the collection teasers his team posted on Instagram in the run-up to the show generated some serious buzz).
“It’s always about this idea of past and future and a technicality to the clothes,” said the designer backstage as models walked by in monogrammed beanies, oversize coats, and loose, menswear-inspired pants. “But I also love this idea of comfort, this idea of wrapping yourself.” Knits spun from virgin wools and embroidered with the clubhouse name played into that notion. As did varsity jackets with softly cocooning shoulders that had been cut elegantly into thigh-grazing and calf-skimming dresses. But despite the focus on relaxation, the collection wasn’t without a more sensual spin. Variations on a fluted miniskirt and boxy sweater pairing (which, in an ode to the seventies, was splashed in either a graphic checkerboard print or monochromatic burgundy) offered a more flirtatious edge and a nod to Lacoste’s eternally playful joie de vivre.
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